Rats, Sharks, and Sea Turtles

Last week was spent kicking it on a turtle preserve on a remote beach on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast. Our days were passed lazing in hammocks with the occassional beach soccer game with the locals and our nights were spent taking 3-hour shifts patroling the beach for massive endangered leatherback turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs before heading back into the depths. Lots of downtime...I came armed with an iPod chock-full of the mighty triumvirate of Lost, The Office, and Family Guy, my guilty pleasures, to help pass the quiet nights sans electriciy. God bless the video iPod.

Jessica living The Life

So the turtles...these amazing creatures can live upwards of 150 years and average 4 to 5 feet and lay 60 t0 120 eggs the size of golf balls. They face a bit of a battle against nature as well as humans...poaching became a big issue in years past (and still present). Turtle eggs fetch a pretty penny here as they're believed to have natural aphrodisiac effects, about $40 for a batch from one turtle, which is a good night's salary for these local folks. And if the poachers don't get them first, their nests oftentimes don't even survive in the wild from being washed away by the tide or eaten by natural predators. And even if the babies do get to the point of hatching and making it out to sea, about 1 in 1,000 make it to adulthood; the sharks are big fans of these cute little guys. So Costa Rica has recently become quite pro-active in protecting them and helping them bolster their ranks, which means snatching the eggs from the mama after they're laid and relocating them to a hatchery where they can be monitored and protected until they hatch.

On turtle patrol with Johnny and Jessica at some ungodly hour of the night

Although we enjoyed oceanfront digs, swimming was not much part of our daily activity due to the very shark-infested waters we shared our beach with. There were several reports of sightings alarmingly close to shore while we were there, which quickly cured me of my need to take a refreshing dip. And a word about the oceanfront digs -- really a crude shack we shared with ROUSs (Rodents Of Unusual Size for the Princess Bride ignorant) that came to visit every night. I like to think I have a high threshold for such things, but I did almost lose it the other night when I left for my three-hour turtle patrol in the middle of the night and came back to fresh rat poop on my BED. Not cool.

It was sweltering hot and thank God that coconuts abounded in this virgin tropical paradise, we kept ourselves cool gorging on cocolocos, or rather straight up coconut milk drunk straight out of the coconut with a straw. The group got really good at cracking open coconuts with a machete by the end of the week.

Cocoloco party

Hiking in to the beachfront camp

We've lost one of our ranks, Amanda, who decided to take the independent travel route and split off from the group to do her own thing for a few weeks. We were sad to see her go!